Saturday, 28 April 2012

How I made my Akemi Homura Costume

In this entry, I’ll share with you guys how I did my Akemi Homura costume. The costume looked really simple on first sight but as usual, it is not if you want to stay accurate.

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1) The White dress Top

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The white dress top was made with a very soft cloth, a sort of polyester satin mix. To avoid shining the cameras to death, I used the reverse side of the fabric. I’m a fan of using the reversed side of fabric for costume as they tend to give an interesting and subtle glean.

It’s an unusual choice of fabric. Like most people, I would usually go for polyester cotton or something similar since Homura's dress definitely looks opaque white. But in view of the fact that she wears another high collared top inside, I decided it is wiser to choose a fabric that is thin and allows for better ventilation. I don't fancy dehydrating in costume's xD

IMG_1904But I was really regretting my choice of fabric halfway through the construction of the dress. Because soft fabric like these tend to slide around and they are such a hassle to work with! And as usual, I screwed up the measurements many times.

I based my white top on a basic 1 piece dress pattern. I first drafted half of the dress pattern on paper to get the sizing right. As you can tell from the photo, I also used a marker to mark out where the shoulder flap would be to assist me in my visual gauging. After I made sure I got everything right, I proceed to add the shoulder flaps.

If you are not very confident in your dressmaking skills, my tip is to always test and trial with paper first! Even for the grey shoulder flaps, I tested with newspaper before cutting my fabric. 

Click on the picture to see in full.


After I was extremely convinced the white dress would fit me perfectly, I went ahead to mark out where the grey shoulder flaps would go. Making sure I leave an extra 1 inch of allowance, I then cut the extra fabric away.

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Using my trusty fabric glue, I glued very thin black ribbons onto the grey shoulder flaps just like how Homura has hers. And then hand stitched the grey shoulder flap onto the dress.

2) Black Inner top

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This is how the black inner top looks like. The zip in front starts below the throat and opens all the way to facilitate wearing. And as you can tell, I made it significantly shorter than my upper torso. The reason for designing it so, is to reduce the bulk of the costume around my waist so I’d look less fat and also for better ventilation.

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This is how the confusing collar looks like. It took me sooooooo many trials to get the right pattern ! I have seen many Homura costumers who created her collar by splitting it into a ‘collar ring’ and another addition flap. But I was insistent on making it a single flowing design just because I think it is nicer.

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This is my paper pattern for the collar. I made and remade so many of them I pretty much forgot which is the final one. LOL =x Don’t worry, this pattern should be fine =X

As usual, collars are always made with 2 layers (main cloth and a lining layer) to ensure the edges are nice.

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Sew the bias on after attaching the collar to the top.

3) Pleated Skirt

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I made her skirt as a tight knife pleat skirt with lace at the bottom. In fact, I was so lazy I didn’t even bother to make a new skirt. I just altered it from my Kuchiki Rukia Skirt xDD

Watch the video and read my blog entry to learn how to make a pleated skirt

4) Her hand accessory

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I panicked when I realised they don’t sell diamond shaped gems in the stores =_= So I had to make one myself (again!).

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The diamond gem is made with clear plastic sheet. The idea of it is the same as building a paper model, but with a strong plastic sheet instead.  I first tested the size and shape with a normal paper. After I was satisfied with the template, I traced it onto a piece of paper. I then laid my transparent plastic sheet over it and traced over it with a permanent marker.

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The black lines are where to cut. I then create a wedge at the 4 corners of the plastic sheet and stick everything in place with a clear scotch tape. JPEG Image (27944)

Lastly, paint the gem. I used purple nail polish left over from my Mogami Kyoko (Prisoner) cosplay xD. My apologies for the lack of photographs. Didn’t have much time to snap progress photos >.< .

IMG_1952The plastic gem placed in the wire frame before colouring to gauge the size

Much like how I did my Alastor necklace (Shakugan no Shana), I made the edge of Homura’s accessory with Gold coloured wires.

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I placed the finished gem on a paper and traced the edges out. Then from the diamond base, I went on to draw out the rest of the accessory. This drawing will serve as a guideline for my wire.

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What happens next is a lot of twisting and turning with my bare hands. To facilitate the sculpting process, I stuck the wire on to the paper with clear scotch tapes so the wire will stay in place.

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Super glue the gem to the wire frame.

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After my first photo-shoot, I had the unfortunate chance to discover that the super glue alone was not enough to hold the gem to the wire. So after that shoot,  I stuck a layer of gold adhesive tape to the bottom of the accessory to, hopefully, hold everything together better.

Finally done! Yes, I do understand it’s not very accurate but I tried my best T__T

5) The collar and back bows

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I was in such a rush the first time I made the costume I failed to think through each procedure properly. And ended up doing a pretty shameful job with the back bow.

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The black diamond-ish designs are cut outs from black felt. In order to know how to cut, I stuck the base of the ribbon onto a piece of paper and traced around it. Then draw out the design on the paper and cut it out as a template.

The bow is basically 2 layers of cloth, sewed and then turned inside out. The black diamond-ish designs are then cut and stuck onto both sides with my trusty fabric glue.

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If you are making a Homura Akemi costume, remember to sew/stick the black diamond designs on FIRST before sewing the 2 layers of cloth (for the ribbon) together. I sewed and hot glued a big safety pin at the back for easy wearing.

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Using a similar procedure as the back ribbon, I made a long fabric tube for the front ribbon and then twist, cut, sew them together in place. A bendable wire was inserted into the top part (where my finger is touching) of the bow to keep it horizontal.

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Alright, this marks the end of my entry. If you enjoyed it, please leave me a comment ^^.

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